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  1. #1
    [align=left]Hello all.[/align]
    [align=left]I'm a beginner here so take it easy on me.
    I have a question.
    I have a sitting area and it has an Oak Tree by it.
    I cleared an area/circle around the tree where I wanted to plant some Wildflowers and Poppy's to have something to look* at.[/align]
    [align=left]Is there anything I can lay down BEFORE planting, that will prevent wild grass/weeds from popping up between the plants?
    I saw some of that weed material you lay down, but how do you get the seeds to grow "through" it?[/align]
    [align=left]I'd like to be able to enjoy looking at the flowers, than constantly pulling up weeds ect.
    If its any help I :[/align]
    [align=left]Live at an elevation of 3000'.
    The area gets alot of Sun.
    It snows about 8 days during the Winter
    Location is Northern California.[/align]
    [align=left]I guess I'm looking more for "Prep Tips" than "what to plant". :)[/align]
    [align=left]Thanks[/align]
    [align=left]Roger[/align]

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Daytona Beach
    Posts
    72
    You're talking about a weed barrier cloth? A thin layer of fibrous material that will allow water* and oxygen through? You would not sow seed where you use that. You would cut a slit in the fabric and insert a plug or cell or rooted slip of a plant into the soil beneath.* Then mulch on top of the weed barrier.

    I've used a thicker recycled plastic mat immediately around the trunks of some of my lawn planted trees to keep from having to mow or weedwhack around the young tree. I actually cut them up from the circle shapes I bought to piece around the trees.

    The heavier and more durable your weed barrier, the more of a problem it becomes as the tree trunk grows in circumference. The flimsy cloth type that I think you have will not be much of a problem other than it will shred and eventually have too many planting holes in it to reduce the effectiveness.

    Depending on what kind of tree you have, you may need to reconsider the wildflowers, especially the poppies. They usually like full sun and under a tree's canopy is the opposite.

  3. #3

    [align=left]Well THANK YOU so much for those easy to understand instructions.[/align]
    [align=left]Yes the cloth is the Flimsy type.[/align]
    [align=left]The tree I want to plant around is an established Oak tree in our (what we call) "Back-40".[/align]
    [align=left]There is absolutely no grass, its just pretty much wild growth that I cut down with a weed trimmer.[/align]
    [align=left]I've put some outdoor furniture out there and cleared a circular space about 10-12' in diameter around the base of the tree.[/align]
    [align=left]I was going to line it with some natural rock and just throw some seed out there.[/align]
    [align=left]I'm not a plant guru, but it does get quite a bit of Sun back there.[/align]
    [align=left]*[/align]
    [align=left]Thanks again for your input.[/align]
    [align=left]I REALLY appreciate it![/align]
    [align=left]Roger[/align]

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Maryland zone 7
    Posts
    3,042
    Some great advice from Thanrose.* The best thing you can do for your trees is to remove the grass and weeds and put down a 2" layer of mulch.* Here's some interesting links about tree roots.
    http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/WO017
    http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/Garden/02926.html
    http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/trees_turf.aspx
    http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/mulching.aspx

    Why not prepare a garden bed that you can see from your seating area* that won't compete with the tree roots?* Well prepared soil will give your seeds a better chance to germinate and be strong and healthy.* This site is helpful, especially numbers 6 and 7.
    http://www.greenhands.com/faq/index.html

    Some good info here but I don't agree with adding peat moss to the soil.* If you just add a 3" to 4" layer of compost and mix it in, your plants will do well.
    http://www.doityourself.com/stry/preparegardensoil

    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

  5. #5
    [align=left]Newt, (and others).[/align]


    [align=left]My Wife helped me level out the side yard for planting the Grass seed.

    I made the 1st attempt, and had about 12 "low" spots. :(
    Together we erradicated MOST of those low spots.
    Upon watering I see there are 3 Low Spots left.
    Maybe 3/4" deep, and about 1 1/2' in Diameter.
    Would it be OK to throw some fine dirt dirt into these low spots,
    to try and level them out?

    Please note that I'm a Weekend Gardner and it DOESN'T have to be an EXACT Science
    I just get depressed looking at these 3 Low Spots that collect water within 3 minutes of starting to water. Now the Seed is the "Quick Lawn" seed and it is going on its 5th day. So would it HURT to put dirt over the seed that hasn't or is JUST starting to germinate?[/align]
    [align=left]Roger:shock:[/align]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Daytona Beach
    Posts
    72
    Yeah, 3/4 inch of soil over the seed will prevent it from germinating. Grass seed is top sewn because it needs light to germinate.

    I hear you on the low spots though. Depending on the local soil and microclime, you may be prone to fungal growth in damp places, so those depressions holding water for even a half hour could lead to a nasty problem.

    For a minimum of care and your maximum enjoyment, I'd fill those areas with top soil, tamp down and scatter more grass seed.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Maryland zone 7
    Posts
    3,042
    Roger, sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner, but my electricity keeps going off from the storms we've had and my computer is now acting up.* Thanrose gave you a great answer and I agree with what she said.* Hope you saved some seed.* If not, wait until you mow a couple of times and then build up the soil level with NO MORE then 1/2" of soil each time.* Let the grass grow through it and get mowed a couple of times more before you add more soil.

    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

  8. #8
    [align=left]Guess I'm gonna have to buy some MORE seed![/align]
    [align=left];+)[/align]
    [align=left]*[/align]
    [align=left]THREAD JACK ALERT!!!!!!!!!!!!![/align]
    [align=left]I'm going to be transplanting a 3' tall pine Tree, from the lot next door, to a pre-determined hole that I've already dug.[/align]
    [align=left]I did this last year and litterally RAN (after I dug the one Pine tree up) to place it into its new Home (hole), and it is STILL alive 7 Months later.[/align]
    [align=left]My concern is that the Hole I dug, the Dirt looks a little "dry" in that hole.[/align]
    [align=left]Is there anything I can do to "Prep it"?[/align]
    [align=left]II was going to throw some water in there to soften it up a bit, so the roots could grow.[/align]
    [align=left]*[/align]
    [align=left]Thoughts???[/align]
    [align=left]Roger[/align]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Maryland zone 7
    Posts
    3,042
    You can put water in the hole and let it drain away.* Do not amend the soil in any way and be sure to plant at the same depth it was before.* Here's some handy links.
    http://www.arborday.org/trees/video/howtoplant.cfm
    http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/pla...ees/f1147w.htm
    http://www.freeplants.com/how_to_bal..._dig_plant.htm
    http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/mulching.aspx
    http://cals.arizona.edu/pubs/water/az1298/

    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

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