Randy, you are very welcome!* As to the trees you have on the porch, the greatest concern is the watering of the roots, potential for a hard freeze and lack of sunlight.* Speaking of sunlight, I never did address your questions on that and will.* Do be sure you read the transplanting section for these trees before you plant.* When you plant you will need to remove the plastic and any twine that is synthetic as that won't decompose.* Be sure the roots don't dry out.* Give them the sunniest place you can as these trees need full sun to bloom and produce fruit.* It would be best to plant them as soon as you can, especially if they are in shade.* You don't want them to get sunburned when you plant them in a sunnier position.
Full sun - 6 hours or more
Part sun - 4 to 6 hours
Part shade - 2 to 4 hours
Shade - 2 hours or less of sun
Here's another site you might want to keep for future reference.* It doesn't have pretty pictures, but gives loads of helpful info on many trees, including mature height and width as well as info on leaf litter, surface roots that might lift sidewalks and driveways and some helpful pest and disease info in brief.* YOu can look up trees by sceintific or common name.
I don't know if your willow oaks have been pruned over the years, but since you say they are directly over the house, you might want to consider investing on having a certified arborist take a look at them to see if they need to be pruned.* Too much shade over a roof will retain moisture on the roof and shorthen the life of the shingles.* Been there, lived that!* Proper pruning will also allow for better air circulation for these densely limbed trees which will give them stronger structure and help keep insects and disease at bay.* Here's some info on these trees.
As to where to plant your fruit trees.* These trees will do best with full sun, so I'm thinking that the western exposure would be best.* You can always do a google search using either their scientific names (best way to go), or their common names.* Clicking on 'Images' will often give you pictures of the different stages of growth.
Pear trees are famous for being weak limbed, especially the ornamental pear which is what you have, so site them so the limbs won't fall where you don't want them.* Just to help clarify things, you have a Callery pear with the variety being 'Cleveland Select'.* It's an ornamental and not an edible fruit bearing tree, though it will have fruits that are invasive in the environment.* It's scientific name is Pyrus calleryana 'Cleveland Select' and is probably one of the better choices if you must have an ornamental pear.* As to the odor, I've heard from some people that the ornamentals have an unpleasant odor, but my neighbor had one (Bradford pear which is also a callery pear) on the border of our properties and it never smelled badly.* I think it depends on the individual tree, though the Cleveland is supposed to not have a smell at all. I think it depends on the individual tree. Keep in mind that you don't have a fruiting pear, it's an ornamental and won't give you edible fruit.* You can always do a google search with terms like:
Pear 'Cleveland Select' + odor
Pear 'Cleveland Select' + smell
Pyrus calleryana 'Cleveland Select' + smell
and so on...
I will say that the Bradford pear my neighbor had has since been removed.* My hubby was outside cleaning up the yard one afternoon when there was no wind.* He heard a loud cracking noise above his head.** He looked up just in time to step aside as a huge limb came crashing down.* That tree was there when I moved in 20 years ago and had been pruned by an arborist from time to time.* They can be unpredictable as to limb breakage even when properly cared for.* If that large limb had hit him, it could have put him in the hospital or even worse.* You might find this helpful.
From this site with some of the results and the conclusions what you really want to read.
The main differences found among the cultivars 6 to 9 years after transplanting were in trunk diameters, heights, and width of crowns (Table 1). Aristocrat™ was largest in diameter at breast height (dbh), and ‘Cleveland Select’ and ‘Whitehouse’ were smallest but sturdy enough.
Callery pear cultivars that grew well and remained healthy at several locations through the ninth year after transplanting included Aristocrat, ‘Cleveland Select’, and ‘Redspire’. Others that can be recommended based on less extensive evaluations are ‘Autumn Blaze’, ‘Capital’, Cleveland Pride®, and Valiant. ‘Bradford’ also performed well at 1 location, where it has not yet suffered limb breakage that has occurred frequently elsewhere.
Several cultivars have narrow crowns or lower mature heights that commend them for restricted spaces, for example under utility wires or near buildings. ‘Autumn Blaze’ apparently will not grow as tall as the others. ‘Cleveland Select’ and ‘Whitehouse’ have narrow crowns, but the latter has suffered foliage injuries and some twig dieback."
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If I didn't answer your questions about the willow oaks, it would probably be best to start a new topic.
When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.