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  1. #1
    Guilt Trip is offline Junior Member Site Admin
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    Nov 2008
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    Ive read that you can use 45lbs of chicken manure per 100 square foot (a 10' x 10' area), now after weighing, my pooo weighs 16,6 lbs a five gallon bucket, so trying to reach the 45lbs per 100 was too tricky for me , and looking at two buckets spread out over the area "Thats a lot of POOO" in a 10' x 10' area. so instead of the 45lbs I just use 33lbs. after spreading I fired up the old MTD (free)tiller tilled in for the resting time to planting in mid February(zone-9). digging in the dirt -Guilt Trip

  2. #2
    Newt is offline Administrator Site Admin
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    Hi Guilt Trip,

    Not sure where you read that you can use "45lbs of chicken manure per 100 square foot" as you haven't included a link to the site.* You also don't say if this is fresh manure or dried/aged, but that sounds like alot.* Table 2 at this site shows the nutrient content of the different manures, including fresh and dry chicken manure based on weight.
    http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/c...ng_tables.html

    If you scroll down to table 5, you will see the pounds of fertilizer needed for various amounts of actual nitrogen.* The ratio for fresh chicken manure is approximately 2-1-1.* Using that ratio, look at the recommended rate for 16-4-8 and 16-8-8.* You have used alot of chicken manure, and you are intending to plant in 6 weeks.* I would suggest a soil test before you plant.* Did you have a soil test done before you put down that much manure?

    This site has some interesting info on manures. Note my quote.
    http://www.plantea.com/manure.htm

    Chicken manure

    Poultry manure (chicken in particular) is the richest animal manure in N-P-K. Chicken manure is considered "hot" and must be composted before adding it to the garden. Otherwise, it will burn any plants it comes in contact with.
    More good info on using manures.
    http://gardening.wsu.edu/stewardship...re/manure0.htm
    http://gardening.wsu.edu/stewardship...re/manure3.htm

    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

  3. #3
    Guilt Trip is offline Junior Member Site Admin
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Wow ! good Information, I read at I think "*Homesteading* Today or "Garden Guide"? not sure , the amount of Pooo to use, I thought when I put 32 lbs (two five gallons buckets (weighed) that was well enough, not the lbs I had read, that being and spread, I shall do a soil test the middle of February, hoping by that time it may not*be too hot, I have run a Tiller over the ares three times, I was going to add 2" -3" leaves and till in also next week. *Thanks Guilt Trip

  4. #4
    Newt is offline Administrator Site Admin
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    Sep 2003
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    Maryland zone 7
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    You are very welcome!* I don't know where you live, but if you are in a warm climate and you are using green leaves, they might heat up and use up some of the nitrogen as they decompose.* Best to grind them up as fine as you can so they decompose quickly.* I'd say to stop the tilling as you will be chopping up the worms and could destroy the tilth (texture) of the soil.* Over-tilling is not a good thing, and some folks don't recommend it at all.
    http://www.plantea.com/no-tilling.htm

    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

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