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  1. #1
    pierrezo is offline Junior Member
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    Jul 2008
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    Hi there,
    I planted a bare root apple tree last fall.* It's now summer and there is plenty of green growth.* The top branch that I thought would be my central leader has grown a side branch that is now more vertical than the original branch.* My question is:* Which branch should be my central leader?* Should I prune one off ?* If so, should I do it now or wait for the dormant season?
    I've attached a photo of the tree to illustrate.
    Thanks,
    Lorenzo Dodaro

  2. #2
    Newt is offline Administrator Site Admin
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    Sep 2003
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    Maryland zone 7
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    Hi Lorenzo,

    It appears that the "new more vertical branch" could be your new leader.* You will need to make sure it's not a water sprout.* These links have loads of info on pruning fruit trees along with some good pictures.* I would suggest you read through the 'Phisiology of Pruning Fruit Trees' and then read the second link, 'Training and Pruning Apple Trees'.
    http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/treefruit...5/422-025.html
    http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/treefruit...1/422-021.html

    This site also has some great info, but the sketches might be better for you.
    http://www.eap.mcgill.ca/CPTFP_7.htm

    When you prunde often depends on where you live.* The first two sites are from Virginia.* From this link:
    http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/treefruit...1/422-021.html

    Dormant Pruning Response
    A pruned tree is always smaller than a non-pruned tree. Certain pruning cuts stimulate shoot growth in the vicinity of the cut, creating the illusion of increased growth. However, such growth is less than the sum of the wood removed by pruning plus the growth it would have made. Trees tend to maintain equilibrium between the top of the tree and the roots. Pruning shifts this balance in favor of the remaining shoots so that more stored reserves are available per remaining bud. Therefore, a pruned tree produces more shoot growth than a non-pruned tree to maintain the characteristic top-root equilibrium. Shoot growth the season following pruning is proportional to pruning severity.

    Summer Pruning
    Pruning during the summer had traditionally been thought to suppress tree vigor more than comparable pruning during the winter. The summer removal of leaves reduces the quantity of carbohydrate reserves in the trunks and roots, which, theoretically, should suppress shoot growth the following season. However, recent research results from Virginia and other regions of the U.S. indicate that shoot growth is not suppressed more by summer than by dormant pruning, and that summer pruning is not a viable method of suppressing tree vigor.

    Time of Pruning
    The best time to prune fruit trees in Virginia is late winter after the threat of severe cold. However, fruit producers with large acreages must start early to prune all trees before bloom. Pruning should be delayed until most leaves have fallen, and trees should not be pruned during or just before extremely cold weather. Pruning should also be avoided during or just after exceptionally warm weather. Young trees should be pruned last because they grow vigorously and harden (develop low temperature tolerance) later in the fall than older trees.
    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

  3. #3
    pierrezo is offline Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3
    Thanks for all the info, Newt.* Unfortunately, my specific problem doesn't come up in any of the literature.
    I don't think the new branch is a watersprout because it is a couple inches away from the head cut.* Do you think I should cut this new branch off or make it my new central leader?
    1. If I cut this new branch off, I may have to train the original branch to be more vertical, as it is pretty horizontal.[/*]
    2. If I cut the original branch off a short distance from the new branch, I'm not sure if this will have adverse affects on the shape of the tree.[/*]
    Thanks,
    Lorenzo


  4. #4
    Newt is offline Administrator Site Admin
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    Sep 2003
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    Maryland zone 7
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    Lorenzo, I'm sorry it's taken me a bit to get back to you, but I have been thinking about your tree and doing some research.* Unfortunately I haven't come up with a definate answer.* Here's my thoughts.

    1. If I cut this new branch off, I may have to train the original branch to be more vertical, as it is pretty horizontal.
    True, but that might be the best way to go.* One of those sites shows how to do this with a piece of wood.

    Note figure 14 here.
    http://www.eap.mcgill.ca/CPTFP_7.fig14.GIF

    Figure 15 here shows a similar situation that existed on the top branch on the left of the tree.
    http://www.eap.mcgill.ca/CPTFP_7.fig15.GIF

    2. If I cut the original branch off a short distance from the new branch, I'm not sure if this will have adverse affects on the shape of the tree.
    If you allow the 'new more vertical branch' to become the leader, the space on the limb between the original leader and the 'new more vertical branch', could become a problem somewhere down the road.

    Since you mention the potential shape of the tree after pruning, I have another question for you.* Are you growing the tree for fruit production or as an ornamental and whatever fruit you get is a plus?* The reason I ask is because pruning for fruit production and pruning as an ornamental are done differently.

    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

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