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  1. #1

    Please help, my tomatoes are dying! Im desperate..and would grealtly appreciate help!

    Hello guys, I have a rather large garden and plant about 50 tomato plants a year. I currently have about 65 growing, and theyre not doing to well. I had them under grow lights for about 5 1/2 weeks now, and they arenet too big, only about 2 inches high. So, it warmed up for a few days (3 days), so i left em outside (overnight too). THe overnight low was 50 for these 3 days, and it got to about 85 during the day. It drizzed the second day so i didnt even go out to water them (or check them). When i brought them in the third day, i was shocked. They were very pale, and eaten up. Some had already died. Can someone please help me with my situation.

    Here is the physical despcription:
    1) moderatly chewn up leaven, like from bugs
    2) very pale, almost purple underneath the leaves
    3) Not as straight up, not really wilted, just a weaker stem.
    4) about 2 inches tall

    I have attached pictures and liked a video of them (the video shows it much better).

    What do you guys think happened, and what can i do to save my plants (if its not too late)?

    I would really appreciate your help. This is the first year this happened to me. Thanks!

    Pics:








  2. #2
    You might be to start over, as that is not very good soil.

    You might want to start over with Organic Seed Starting Soil.

  3. #3
    Hmm it would be too late to start now because the frost date is next week. But the soil definatley wasn't the main cause for this anyway. I'm goons wait to heardwhst others think before I take any action. Thanks for your input.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Hi Ferrari,

    You don't say where you live, but I suspect you are in the US. As Growing Veggies mentioned, your soil looks like garden soil and not a growing medium. Here's what the situation looks like to me.

    Your soil appears compacted and it looks like the seeds had a difficult time breaking through. Some cotyledons seem to still have their seed covering stuck to them, or maybe they are just deformed. I was a bit surprised to know that you've had them under lights for 5 1/2 weeks and only have the cotyledons. These will eventually wither away when the first set of true leaves appear. Yours look chlorotic. I suspect from putting them outdoors and leaving them out for the night. You don't say if they were in full sun or not, but it looks that way. If the rain was a heavy rain, that could have damaged the stems and also flush any nutrients from the soil. I can't tell what the bug is from the photo, but it almost looks like a mosquito. The purple of the stems is normal in some varieties of tomatoes, but could be from the stress of the sudden cold temps at night.

    If you put them back under lights, I suggest you have the lights about 4" from the tops of the seedlings. Have a fan blowing GENTLY in the room so there is air movement, but not blowing directly on the seedlings. This will help to strengthen the stems.

    Some of the stems look broken, as if by wind or an animal or person. You might want to use a small scissors to cut at the soil, any that are broken. I wouldn't fret over a few chewed leaves. Once you have your first set of true leaves I would recommend you fertilize with an organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion mixed with seaweed.

    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Newt View Post
    Hi Ferrari,

    You don't say where you live, but I suspect you are in the US. As Growing Veggies mentioned, your soil looks like garden soil and not a growing medium. Here's what the situation looks like to me.

    Your soil appears compacted and it looks like the seeds had a difficult time breaking through. Some cotyledons seem to still have their seed covering stuck to them, or maybe they are just deformed. I was a bit surprised to know that you've had them under lights for 5 1/2 weeks and only have the cotyledons. These will eventually wither away when the first set of true leaves appear. Yours look chlorotic. I suspect from putting them outdoors and leaving them out for the night. You don't say if they were in full sun or not, but it looks that way. If the rain was a heavy rain, that could have damaged the stems and also flush any nutrients from the soil. I can't tell what the bug is from the photo, but it almost looks like a mosquito. The purple of the stems is normal in some varieties of tomatoes, but could be from the stress of the sudden cold temps at night.

    If you put them back under lights, I suggest you have the lights about 4" from the tops of the seedlings. Have a fan blowing GENTLY in the room so there is air movement, but not blowing directly on the seedlings. This will help to strengthen the stems.

    Some of the stems look broken, as if by wind or an animal or person. You might want to use a small scissors to cut at the soil, any that are broken. I wouldn't fret over a few chewed leaves. Once you have your first set of true leaves I would recommend you fertilize with an organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion mixed with seaweed.

    Newt
    Thank you for your informative post. Yes, I live in NJ actually. The "potting soil" I got was actually "planting mix", so I guess that was a problem.

    Yes, my plants definatley are chlorotic now.

    When you say, "These will eventually wither away when the first set of true leaves appear," do you mean my whole plant will die and I will have to replant, or do you mean just my cotyledons?

    And yes, my plants were in full sun.

    Do you think these plants will be able to be saved? Or will I have to buy transplants (the frost date around here is May 15)?

    And also, I'm a little confused about this part:
    "Some of the stems look broken, as if by wind or an animal or person. You might want to use a small scissors to cut at the soil, any that are broken."
    Do you suggest that I cut all the dead plant's stems?

    Thanks!

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Ferrari, you are so very welcome!

    Quote Originally Posted by feRRari4756 View Post
    The "potting soil" I got was actually "planting mix", so I guess that was a problem.
    It looks so compacted.


    When you say, "These will eventually wither away when the first set of true leaves appear," do you mean my whole plant will die and I will have to replant, or do you mean just my cotyledons?
    Just the cotyledons. Sorry, I didn't mean to confuse you.


    And yes, my plants were in full sun.
    Probably explains the color of the leaves now. It's best to start out by hardening them off by putting them in shade and slowly moving them to sun a bit more each day. Plants can get sunburn just like humans.


    Do you think these plants will be able to be saved? Or will I have to buy transplants (the frost date around here is May 15)?
    They should be able to be saved, at least most of them. I think you are just going to have to be patient for another week or so and see if they sprout new true leaves.


    And also, I'm a little confused about this part:
    "Some of the stems look broken, as if by wind or an animal or person. You might want to use a small scissors to cut at the soil, any that are broken."
    Do you suggest that I cut all the dead plant's stems?
    Yes, cut the ones that are damaged, bent or broken at the soil line and remove them from the pot so there is less chance of fungal or bacterial problems as they rot. By cutting them at the soil line you won't be disturbing the roots of those you want to keep.

    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

  7. #7
    OK thank you very much.

    So this is what I did:

    I put a fan on low power slightly blowing on the plants (its on low speed from about 5-6 feet away)
    Then, I lowered the lights down to about 4-5 inches above the plants.
    Then, I snipped all the dead/almost dead plants away.

    How should I water them? Wait until they are almost dry and then soak them, or keep the soil moist?

    What else (other than what I already did) do you reccomend me doing to save my plants?

    Thanks again!

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by feRRari4756 View Post
    So this is what I did:

    I put a fan on low power slightly blowing on the plants (its on low speed from about 5-6 feet away)
    It's really best not to have the fan blowing directly on the seedlings. You want the air to circulate just enough to dry off the plants and very top of the soil after watering, and to help strengthen the stems. Just some air movement. Try and aim the fan above the plants.


    Then, I lowered the lights down to about 4-5 inches above the plants.
    Great!


    Then, I snipped all the dead/almost dead plants away.
    Great!


    How should I water them? Wait until they are almost dry and then soak them, or keep the soil moist?
    Water when the top of the soil is dry. With the fan blowing and the lights closer you may have to water once or twice a day. Let the water drain through the holes, wait about 5 minutes for excess water to be soaked up and then dispose of any excess. You want the soil to stay slightly moist. If it dries out your seedlings will too.


    What else (other than what I already did) do you reccomend me doing to save my plants?

    Thanks again!
    Not much else I can think of other then to have an organic fertilizer on hand to use when you get the first or second set of true leaves. See if the new leaves are green. If they are, wait until the second set to appear before you fertilize.

    And you are welcome again! Glad I can help.
    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

  9. #9
    OK. I will update you on what happens.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    I would love to know how they do.

    Newt
    When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

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