Can anyone identify this plant.

[j.ord]

I moved in over 2 years ago and this plant was in the garden it gets loads of buds but no flowers. Just wondering if i'm doing somthing wrong or is it not meant to get flowers on.

Thanks

[Newt]

Hi J.ord,

Your plant is a Rhododendron.* It appears to be a young one and may not be blooming due to lack of sunlight.* They also like lots of organic matter, so try fertilizing with either a topdressing of 1/4" of compost this winter or watering with a tablespoon of milk in a gallon of water when the soil dries out a bit in spring.* If it still doesn't bloom next year considering moving it to a sunnier spot.*

Unfortunately you don't say where you live so I can't say how much sun it should get.* Most of these plants prefer about 4 hours of sun, but if you are in a hot climate you might want to just move it to a brighter spot.* They have shallow roots so be careful.* You should find this helpful.
http://www.hancockwoodlands.ca/understanding.html

Here's how to prund them after flowering when that does happen for you.
http://www.taunton.com/finegardening...x?nterms=74872

Newt

[j.ord]

Thanks Newt for you speedy reply my wife will be very happy to find out what this plant is. You said in your reply that the plant i took a picture of looked very young but there is also another Rhododendron which looks well established with plenty of buds but neither seem to flower, see attached, both are on opposite sides of the garden which is south facing and gets sunlight all day. Thanks for the links by the way, very helpful. Maybe we are not feeding them right, really i'm just glad to know what they are and i'll take it from there and go with the the links you posted THANKS.

j.ord

[Newt]

You still don't say where you live, but that might have something to do with them not blooming.** If you had a warm winter or a long warm spell, that could cause them not to bloom, as the buds will start to grow and then get nipped by a frost.* That's called bud blast.* The full sun site could be contributing to that as well as the light colored fence behind it.* More light reflected on your shrubs.

Now that I take a second look at your photo I notice the leaves look chlorotic.* You might want to do a soil test to see what nutrients are missing.* Too much nitrogen can also cause lack of bloom.
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/PTLK/2115.html


Another possibility is they were pruned heavily before you purchased the house and it could take 3 years before they bloom again.

If your spring and summer were dry that could also cause the buds to form but not bloom.

Another possibility could be the pH of your soil.* Try a pH test to see if the soil is acid enough.* You may need a fertilizer that is acid based to kick start them into bloom.

Rhodyman says it best:

Variety. Some plants will never bloom. Some rhododendrons that come from the seed of a hybrid plant will look good but will never produce flowers or will produce very poor flowers. To come true to the parent plant, a hybrid may be propagated by cuttings or tissue culture but not from seed. A good hybrid seedling only comes about once in a while. For that reason it is important to know that you are getting a good named variety or a good species.

Fertilizing. Nitrogen promotes leaf and branch growth and discourages flower bud production. It can also force late season growth that gets killed or stunted by frost damage. Phosphorus promotes flower bud production and hardiness. Potassium is necessary for well being.

Weather. Cold weather can kill flower buds. Usually you see the brown buds in the spring. Cold spells in the fall or spring can damage buds that are not hardened off. Bud blast (blooming in fall or winter) uses up good buds which are then not available at the normal blooming time.

Age. Most rhododendrons take 2 to 3 years to bloom from a rooted cutting unless forced. Some take longer and some bloom sooner. From seeds the plant may take 1 or 2 additional years.

Exposure. Some rhododendrons need full sun to bloom and others can take fairly dense shade. In general, the more sun the more flower buds but also the greater exposure to damage from desiccation in summer or winter. More shade produces more foliage and less flowers.

Inspection. You can usually tell if the plant has ever bloomed. A rhododendron that has bloomed will have the seed pods on it unless it has been dead-headed. If dead-headed too late after blooming, new flower buds can be damaged.

There are many other cultural variables that influence the plant's health and hence, its ability to produce flowers.

Failure of flower buds to open could be due to a number of reasons. On a mature plant if they ever bloomed they will have a few of the seed pods still here and there. If you can't find any old seed pods, then they may have never bloomed. In any case, here are a few suggestions that may help:

Bud set. The buds could be foliage buds rather than flower buds. In this case check the previous section about flower buds not setting.

Bud blast. Plants which are not sufficiently hardened off or are exposed to unseasonable warm spells can start bloom prematurely. These blooms are seldom satisfactory and many times get frozen before opening fully. In any case, the seasonal bloom is lost. Also, disease may attack the buds before they open.

Low temperatures. The buds could be flower buds that froze during the winter. Cold climates are too cold for many rhododendrons. Most rhododendrons have a low temperature at which the flower buds are damaged and will not produce flowers. It varies greatly from variety to variety.

Nutrients. Improper nutrients my be a problem that affects cold hardiness and flower bud set. A few things you can do are to fertilize with phosphorus (super-phosphate) per directions to increase hardiness and flower bud set. This can be done any time. Do not use nitrogen rich fertilizers as they may inhibit flower bud production and also reduce cold hardiness. Lawn fertilizers are notoriously high in nitrogen and should be kept away from flowering plants.

Acidity. Measure the pH and acidify if necessary. Flowers of sulfur (powdered sulfur) is the best chemical to use to increase the acidity [lower the pH]. Do not use aluminum sulfate since aluminum salts build up in the soil and eventually becomes toxic to many plants including rhododendrons and azaleas. If soil is too acid, the symptoms can be the same. Very acidic soil can prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. As many of my rhododendrons are planted in very acidic forest soil, an application of Dolomite and a light topdressing of mushroom manure in late spring is all they need. Sprinkle the lime on in late winter, very early spring. Don't overdo it - just a light sprinkle. If it is mid-spring, get the lime on right away so the rhododendron roots will be able to take up the soil nutrients in time for new growth. If you don't have rain, water it in well.

Protection. If the plants are wrapped in burlap during the winter, they may gain a few more degrees in hardiness.

Drought. When soil moisture is too low, the buds will not open. Watering will usually resolve this condition if detected soon enough.

Newt

[j.ord]

Cheers Newt

I live in the North West of England (lots of rain)

Thanks for all the information. I'll have a good read and try some of the ideas.

Thanks again for your time, cheers.

[Newt]

England!* I ususally can tell for the way someone spells words or the terms they use if they are from across the pond.* You had me fooled.* :)* You might want to add your location to your profile.* Knowing where a plant is growing is often helpful when answering questions.*

Maybe the wet weather is the cause of your problems.* If there is too much rain the nutrients can get washed away and the plant can't take up what is there.* I can't really tell the color of the leaves from the second photo as it's at night, but if the leaves are also pale, I would start with what nutrients might be missing.* I found these UK links that might be helpful.
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile...dodendrons.asp
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0500/rhodo.asp

From the description here of the bark you might be able to tell which kind you have.
http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile...on_pruning.asp

Newt