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joslinga
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 Posted: Tue Nov 14th, 2006 02:41 pm

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I just received/ rescued a 9 foot tall Corn Plant and am wondering when to cut it down to 7 or 8 feet. The potting and root structure do not seem to be adequate to keep it entirely upright so I have staked it in its pot. I realize that moving it horizontally ( probably spent 5 hours this way) and placing it in a new environment may be enough trauma for a day so how long should I wait to trim it back? Any other suggestions?

thank, joslin

Newt
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 Posted: Tue Nov 14th, 2006 04:30 pm

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Hi Joslin,

What a great rescue!!  I realize that you feel your new plant has had enough trauma for one day, but it would be best to cut it back now since it's in a pot.  I don't normally say that, but in this case it was kept horizontally and the roots are probably loosened in the pot.  It is probably also rootbound and needs a larger pot. 

I don't know how many stalks you have, but I would caution you about cutting at 7' or 8' as you could get two sprouts from the cut area and the stalk would then be top heavy once it gets some growth on it.  If the current stalk(s) isn't thick enough to support the top growth you could end up staking it again soon.  Here's a picture of what it could look like once cut and resprouted.
http://www.vermeulen.be/documents/products/dracaena/dracaena-studnerii.xml

Here's one where the stalks are cut at different heights.
http://www.learn.londonmet.ac.uk/packages/clear/thermal/buildings/micro_climate/vegetation/images/plants/dracaena-fragrans.jpg

You can root the portions you cut off at any length you like.  You can even root sections of the stalk.
http://counties.cce.cornell.edu/suffolk/grownet/indoor-plants/propagation.htm
http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06560.htm

This site about potting up your plant should also be helpful.
http://www.ourgardengang.com/containerpotting.htm

I don't usually recommend fertilizing stressed plants, but in this case I would suggest you use an organic fertilizer like fish emulsion or fish emulsion mixed with sea weed.  A synthetic fertilizer will be too stimulating.

Newt

joslinga
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 Posted: Thu Nov 16th, 2006 08:47 pm

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Newt,

 Thanks so much for the advice! So if I understand correctly, you suggest that I take it down further than 7-8 feet- is this correct? It has 3 trunks and the tallest was cut fairly low (about 2 feet) and split into two which are now 8.5 and 9 feet respectively. Two of the three stalks are tilted in the pot which was shoved into a corner where the growth was supported by a wall. Perhaps I need to prune a bit more aggressively. The pot is quite large so I'm not sure about it being pot-bound. Is there a way to tell without removing the pot? There are no roots protruding and none within sight. Thanks again!

Joslin

Newt
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 Posted: Fri May 25th, 2007 05:10 pm

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Hi Joslinga,

I just realized that I never answered your last question.  It sounds like your plant isn't rootbound, but the best way to tell would be to take it out of the pot and look at the roots.  How's it doing now?

Newt

joslinga
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 Posted: Fri May 25th, 2007 08:06 pm

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Hi Newt,

 Thanks for asking. My Dracaena is in fair condition. I made the error of moving it outdoors before the shade trees had leaves and many of the leavesturned crispy brown- I suspect it was just too much direct sunlight. Now that it is back inside, I've removed the dead and significantly damaged leaves and am giving it time to heal and produce new shoots. Any siggestions? SHould I always keep it indoors. We are in MA and most of my plants love the10-15 weeks that they can be outside.

 

Joslin

Newt
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 Posted: Fri May 25th, 2007 09:30 pm

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It sure does sound like it got sunburned.  I don't like to move my houseplants outdoors for the summer due to the risk of bringing in pests and me often forgetting to bring them in before I turn on the heat at night.  :?  It's a personal choice, but here's some techniques for doing this.
http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1454.htm

You might want to use an organic fertilizer to give it a boost.  Fish emulsion or fish emulsion mixed with seaweed would be good.  If you don't want to do that, add a tablespoon of milk to a quart watering can.  I have been doing that for years.  I recently overwatered mine and had to cut off several blackened leaves.  :( 

Newt

joslinga
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 Posted: Sat May 26th, 2007 12:27 am

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Thanks Newt!, I appreciate the advice. I love using the fish emulsion and willadd some for the next watering. My Ficus and Jades love being outside as does my Norfolk Island Pine, but I understand the pest issue too.

 

Joslin

grose
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 Posted: Sun Apr 6th, 2008 10:12 pm

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I have had a corn plant for a numbe of years-purchased at a grocery store.  It was in a clay pot and rootbound.  Some of the roots kept growing out of the bottom of the pot, so I decided to move it to a larger pot.  It had been a beautiful plant for all these years.  That was about a week and a half ago.  It has looked droopy, leaves look dull, and now leaves at the bottom are turning yellow.  I did not water it when I repotted it because the potting soil was very damp, and in fact on the red clay pot I could see a line of moisture around the top.  I did not water it for several days.  yesterday I noticed what appears to be a white substance--mold?  on the top layer of soil.  I'm afraid I'm losing my pretty plant.  Any suggestions?

grose

Newt
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 Posted: Tue Apr 8th, 2008 09:14 pm

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Hi Grose,

Unfortunatley you didn't water it when you repotted it.  I'm not sure I understand which soil you felt was already damp.  If it was the soil around the rootball, that would have been no problem if you potted it, watered well until the water drained through the bottom of the pot and then dumped any excess water in the saucer after about 15 minutes. That would have given any dry soil time to absorb what it needed.  If it was the new potting soil that was damp, then there is the probability that the rootball absorbed the moisture in the fresh soil, but it wasn't enough for the plant.  If you used a clay pot that breathes and absorbs moisture, that can also put your plant at risk if you didn't pre-soak it in water.  It too probably absorbed any moisture in the soil.

Not sure if what you see on top of the soil is mold or perlite or even residual salts.  I would suggest you put the plant, pot and all, into a large sink or bathtub.  Let water from the tap run into the pot for two or three minutes.  Let the water drain and repeat.  Once the water has stopped draining you can put the plant back on the saucer.  Be sure to tip the pot from side to side before you lift it out of the sink so all excess water can drain off.

Newt


bkwilson
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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2008 01:45 am

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hello people im new to this forum, and have a good question for anyone that knows about these plants. (dracaena) I have one that i have had for aproximately a year. its doing good but i thinks its rootbound in its pot. So should it stay that way or should it be transfered to a bigger pot? Right now its in a pot thats about 6" wide by 8" deep!

Last edited on Sat Apr 12th, 2008 02:02 am by bkwilson

Newt
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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2008 02:33 am

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Hi Bkwilson,

If you've had the plant for a year it is probably rootbound.  If you see roots coming out of the drainage holes or can see them through the drainage holes, it's time to repot.  you can also check by gently lifing it out of the pot.  If it needs a new pot use one that is 2" larger.  Here's how to repot your plant.
http://www.ourgardengang.com/containerpotting.htm

Newt

bkwilson
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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2008 03:43 am

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ok thanks newt, It seems to be bound. Also upon removing the plant from its pot. I noticed that the roots went straight down and into the drainage hole. I had to cut it lose. Will this put it into a shock stage?  This is a dragon tree with one main stock and 3 nice splits on it. How long will it take to start growing taller do you have any ideas? And once its potted into a permanent pot im sure it will still end up  root bound sooner or later, will this keep it from continueing to grow?

Newt
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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2008 03:54 am

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Bkwilson, you are very welcome!  Cutting the roots that were sticking out of the drainage holes won't be a problem.  They tend to get dry and need to be cut off anyway.  It shouldn't harm the plant or make it grow slower.  Do tease out the outer roots when you repot.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=70

It will take a couple of months before you see much growth, if any.  The plant will concentrate on establishing it's roots again.  These plants tend to grow slowly, especially in low light.  Expect to repot in another year or 18 months.  Sometimes with larger plants you can wait 2 years or more to repot.

When you say 'dragon tree' I'm thinking you mean Dracaena marginata.
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/interiorscape/Dracaena_marginata.html

Newt

bkwilson
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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2008 04:08 am

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similar to that but mine has the real long green leaves that have the red lining on the outside edge. the stalk looks like a dried out bamboo. Ive heard these plants get upto 10 feet OH YEAH cant wait. thanks again for the help!!

Newt
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 Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2008 04:11 am

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If you click on the picture at that site you will see the redish stripes on the outer edges of the leaves. 

Glad I could help!
Newt


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