I have*3 trees I would like to identify and also tips for pruning or trimming them. I want to try to keep them smaller to better fit the gaden.* They are in the different posts since I don't think I can have more than 1 at a time.
The tree in the center of the picture is not a shrub, but a tree.* It appears to be some type of pine tree.* I'm guessing it's a named cultivar that is supposed to be dwarf due to it's location and the fact that the bed appears to be planted by a professional.* If you inherited this tree look for a label somewhere inside the tree.* If you can't find one with the name, try contacting the former owner or the landscaper who planted it as I don't know what cultivar it is.* If none of that is possible, let me know.
A good way to prune pine is to clip the candles. This is a sun loving conifer and should not be pruned heavily into the shrub, but only within the green living area.
This is a calendar of when to prune which evergreens. Pine trees are best pruned in April, May and June.
From this site, which has lots of useful info and shows a nice sketch if you click on 'Figure 7' while there:
"Terminal growth of pines can be controlled by removing one-half of the candle in the spring just prior to needle expansion (Figure 7). This encourages new bud formation at the pinch, slows growth on the pinched branch and creates a more compact plant. New buds will not form behind pruning cuts made into older wood.
To encourage rapid shoot development and greatest overall plant growth, prune just prior to the first spring growth flush. To retard growth for maximum dwarfing effect, prune just after each growth flush. Late summer pruning may stimulate an additional flush of shoot growth on species which flush several times each year. These shoots could be damaged by an early frost.Closure of pruning wounds on most trees and shrubs should be most rapid if pruning is conducted just before, or immediately following the spring growth flush. This is desirable because a closed wound is more aesthetically pleasing, and insects, diseases and decay organisms are discouraged from entering the plant. Late fall and early winter pruning can stimulate new growth, particularly during a mild period during the winter. These succulent stems are not cold hardy and can be easily damaged, even by a light frost. Low winter temperatures can also cause cambium damage near pruning cuts, even if gro
wth is not stimulated by pruning. This is particularly true of plants which are marginally hardy. If in doubt about cold susceptibility, it is best to delay heavy pruning to just before growth begins in the spring.Some trees such as birch, maple, dogwood, elm and walnut bleed sap from pruned wounds if they are pruned during late winter or early spring. This "bleeding" is not harmful to the tree, but the dripping sap is often objectionable. Trees which show this tendency should be pruned in late fall or early winter."
Keep in mind that dead wood can be pruned at any time.