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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2003

    Hardy, deciduous perennials for shaded gardens with large, bold leaves often marked with contrasting colors. Leaves range in shape from round to lance-shaped, and colors can be yellow to green to blue, often with white, yellow or green marginal markings. Lavender or white flowers grow on 2 foot stalks in early summer. Wonderful contrast when planted with small-leaved plants, adding texture to the landscape. This cultivar has ovate to heart-shaped dark green leaves 12 inches long with bright yellow margins. Pale lavender flowers are produced on stalks to 3 1/2 feet in summer. 2 feet tall, 4 1/2 feet wide.

    Important Info : Warning: snails and slugs love hosta. Bait 3 to 4 times a year.


    Height: 4 ft. to 5 ft.
    Width: 2 ft. to 2 ft. *

    Plant Category:
    ground covers, perennials, *

    Plant Characteristics:
    low maintenance, *

    Foliage Characteristics:
    deciduous, *

    Foliage Color:
    green, variegated, *

    Flower Characteristics:
    unusual, *

    Flower Color:
    purples, *

    deer, seashore, *

    Bloomtime Range:
    Mid Summer to Late Summer *

    USDA Hardiness Zone:
    4 to 9 *

    AHS Heat Zone:
    2 to 2 *

    Light Range:
    Deep Shade to Part Shade *

    pH Range:
    5.5 to 6.5 *

    Soil Range:
    Some Sand to Clay Loam *

    Water Range:
    Normal to Moist *

    Plant Care

    FertilizingHow-tos : Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials

    Annuals and perennials may be fertilized using: 1.water-soluble, quick release fertilizers; 2. temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers; or 3. organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are generally used every two weeks during the growing season or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow label directions as they may vary per product.

    LightConditions : Full to Partial Shade

    Full shade means there is little or no light in the growing zone. Shade can be the result of a mature stand of trees or shadows cast by a house or building. Plants that require full shade are usually susceptible to sunburn. Full shade beneath trees may pose additional problems; not only is there no light, but competition for water, nutrients and root space.
    Partial shade means that an area receives filtered light, often through tall branches of an open growing tree. Root competition is usually less. Partial shade can also be achieved by locating a plant beneath an arbor or lathe-like structure. Shadier sides of a building are normally the northern or northeastern sides. These sides also tend to be a little cooler. It is not uncommon for plants that can tolerate full sun or some sun in cooler climates to require some shade in warmer climates due to stress placed on the plant from reduced moisture and excessive heat.

    WateringConditions : Moist and Well Drained

    Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

    PlantingHow-tos : Preparing Garden Beds

    Use a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of the soil before beginning any garden bed preparation. This will help you determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where standing water remains. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.
    A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better; work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later. Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been established.

    How-tos : Planting Perennials

    Determine appropriate perennials for your garden by considering sun and shade through the day, exposure, water requirements, climate, soil makeup, seasonal color desired, and position of other garden plants and trees.
    The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is workable and out of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that roots can develop and not have to compete with developing top growth as in the spring. Spring is more desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or for colder areas, allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in summer or winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more established sized plant.
    To plant container-grown plants: Prepare planting holes with appropriate depth and space between. Water the plant thoroughly and let the excess water drain before carefully removing from the container. Carefully loosen the root ball and place the plant in the hole, working soil around the roots as you fill. If the plant is extremely root bound, separate roots with fingers. A few slits made with a pocket knife are okay, but should be kept to a minimum. Continue filling in soil and water thoroughly, protecting from direct sun until stable.
    To plant bare-root plants: Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Prepare suitable planting holes, spread roots and work soil among roots as you fill in. Water well and protect from direct sun until stable.
    To plant seedlings: A number of perennials produce self-sown seedlings that can be transplanted. You may also start your own seedling bed for transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes, spacing appropriately for plant development. Gently lift the seedling and as much surrounding soil as possible with your garden trowel, and replant it immediately, firming soil with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun and water regularly until stable.

    ProblemsPest : Slugs and Snails

    Slugs and snails favor moist climates and are mollusks, not insects. They can be voracious feeders, eating just about anything that is not woody or highly scented. They may eat holes in leaves, strip entire stems, or completely devour seedlings and tender transplants, leaving behind tell-tale silvery, slimy trails.
    Prevention and control: Keep your garden as clean as possible, eliminating hiding places such as leaf debris, over-turned pots, and tarps. Groundcover in shady places and heavy mulches provide protection from the elements and can be favorite hiding places. In the spring, patrol for and destroy eggs (clusters of small translucent spheres) and adults during dusk and dawn. Set out beer traps from late spring through fall.
    Many chemical controls are available on the market, but can be poisonous and deadly for children and pets; take care when using them - always read the label first!

    MiscellaneousGlossary : Low Maintenance

    Low maintenance does not mean no maintenance. It does mean that once a plant is established, very little needs to be done in the way of water, fertilizing, pruning, or treatment in order for the plant to remain healthy and attractive. A well-designed garden, which takes your lifestyle into consideration, can greatly reduce maintenance.

    Glossary : Evergreen

    Evergreen refers to plants that hold onto their leaves or needles for more than one growing season, shedding them over time. Some plants such as live oaks are evergreen, but commonly shed the majority of their older leaves around the end of January.

    Glossary : Landscape Uses

    By searching Landscape Uses, you will be able to pinpoint plants that are best suited for particular uses such as trellises, border plantings, or foundations.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    I have recently planted some bare root hostas. About how long will it take to see growth?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    [align=left]It all depends where you live.** I live in Zone 8 and they are up with the leaves expanded.[/align]

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    I've recently bought my first Hosta, but have not yet planted them. So, before I do I have two questions:
    1. First, I live in zone 10, about an hour south of San Diego, but very close to the ocean, and the temperature never really gets above 75 degrees, with a day or two per summer that might reach 85 to 90 degrees. Lots of marine layer, and over cast days. So my question is: is this really zone 10, or is it more akin to zone 8 or 9?

    2. My second question is about the pH of the soil. I see that Hosta, like many shade plants, like an acidic soil 5.5 to 6.5. So my question is: Will an Azalea, Hibiscus, Camellia fertilizer also work for the Hosta?

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