Planting Roses

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Planting Roses

There
is probably more varied advice given on the planting
of roses than on any item of gardening work; the
soil preparation, which is a necessary preliminary
and may be considered in connection with it, is
the subject of even more contradictory direction.
Rather than attempt to weigh the possible disadvantages
of one method with the possible advantages of
another, it will be more to the point, I think,
if I give my own experience and my own methods,
for they have for some years given me most satisfactory
results. My soil is ordinary garden loam-that
is to say, it is the kind of soil one would expect
to find in any fairly well tilled garden. It is
neither very heavy nor very light, although of
course clay preponderates; otherwise it would
scarcely grow roses. The method I adopt is a simple
one. I do not trench 3 feet deep, as is often
advised. Not for the reason that I underestimate
the value of trenching, but for the very human
reason that full trenching is hard and heavy work,
and that a less elaborate method gives good returns.
I like to do my own digging, then I have the satisfaction
of knowing that it is well done or, at least,
done to my liking. In preparing a bed for rose
planting I first of all take out a trench 18 inches
deep and 2 feet wide across one end of the ground.
The soil at the bottom of the trench is then turned
over with a fork. We thus get some 2 feet depth
of tilled soil. The top ” spit ” of the undug
soil is then turned into the trench ; the second
” spit ” is also turned into the trench upon the
first ” spit.” Thus, to use an ” Irishism,” we
have proceeded one step backward, a new trench
having been opened. The, soil at the bottom of
this is forked over. It may be worth while to
mention that in digging over the first ” spit
” the worker faces the open trench ; in turning
over the second ” spit ” he works sideways to
it ; so, too, when forking the soil in the bottom
of the trench. There is really nothing more to
tell except to say .that the worker ” proceeds
backwards ” until the end of the plot or bed is
reached. The last trench is filled with the soil
that was taken out in making the first trench.
This, by the by, should at once be placed at the
end of the ground, so as to save a second removal.

The
question of manuring is one of importance to the
welfare of the roses. There is no doubt that farmyard
manure is the best stuff for digging in the soil
when preparing for planting, and it is best placed
below the second “spit ” that is, immediately
upon the forked-up soil at the bottom of the trench.
When farmyard manure is not to be obtained readily-and
near towns it appears to be difficult to procure
the best substitute is basic slag. This may be
conveniently applied after spreading it over the
surface at the rate of 1/2 lb. to each square
yard, and then digging it in dig the bed. In any
case, whether farmyard manure is used or not,
basic slag is an excellent fertilizer to apply
in autumn; it is a slow-acting manure, and the
plants will derive benefit from it the following
season.

The
actual planting presents no difficulties. The
chief points to bear in mind are to dig a hole
large enough for the roots to be spread out in
it, to plant at such a depth that the point where
the plant was budded-the junction of stock and
scion-is covered with about 1 inch of soil ; first
to soak the roots in a pail of water or puddled
clay for several minutes, and to cut off all broken
and bruised root ends. It is most harmful to leave
the plants lying about when waiting their turn
to be planted; they should either be placed in
water or covered with soil. The root fibers so
quickly dry up and perish when exposed to the
air even for a short time. Finally, it is necessary
to make the soil firm about the roots. It follows
from this that planting cannot be done when the
ground is wet ; neither is it wise to plant when
the ground is dry, as it sometimes is in October.
As to the time of planting, early November is
the best of all. However, rose planting may be
carried out successfully from the middle of October
until the end of March or early April, but not
later when the plants are from the open ground.
Roses from pots may be planted at any time of
the year, though preferably not later than May,
since the roots are not disturbed and the plant
receives no check.

If
the removal is carefully carried out one may shift
even large roses from one part of one’s garden
to another without their suffering, providing
they are transplanted, say, not later than the
first week in November. I have shifted 6 feet
high plants of Hugh Dickinson from a bed for which
they proved too tall, planting them against a
fence without even a shoot shriveling When bought
plants are put in, severe pruning is invariably
necessary the following spring. Some growers advise
covering the rose beds with manure in autumn when
planting is finished. Others, and I am among.
the number, think a covering of manure in spring
preferable. I give a coating of farmyard manure
‘as soon as pruning is finished, which is usually
about the first week in April. This is forked
just beneath the surface. The roses receive no
further manure, except occasional dressings of
fertilizer during summer.

There
are many excellent special fertilizers on the
market, as, for instance, Clay’s, Guano, Wakeley’s
Hop Manure (which, by the by, is an excellent
substitute for farmyard manure), and others. Tonks’
manure is especially beneficial to roses. It is
compounded from a prescription formulated by the
late Dr. Tonks, and may be purchased already made
up. Those who like to mix their own may care to
know the ingredients, which are as follow :-Superphosphate
of lime, twelve parts; nitrate of potash, ten
parts; sulfate of magnesia., two parts; sulfate
of iron, one part, and sulfate of lime, eight
parts. This is applied in early spring at the
rate of one pound to the square yard. Tonks manure
is best applied in February. It is scattered on
the surface of the bed, and then turned in with
a fork.

It
may be well to remind rose planters how necessary
it is to secure standards and climbers to their
stakes or the wall immediately planting is completed.
November is notoriously a windy month and, as
I know to my cost, many shoots may be broken off
if they are not made fast to their supports. It
may be said that I do not practice what I preach;
but even supposing this to be the case, surely
it is no good reason why I should not give others
the best advice. It is true that I have neglected
always to observe the rules that I now give for
the guidance of others; but have I not paid the
penalty ? I would parody the old adage and say
that, ” A tie in time saves nine,” but as a matter
of fact it does much more, it saves a rose from
disfigurement and possible destruction.

Articles

   Planting
Roses

   Winter
Protection

   Pruning
Bush or Dwarf Roses

   Pegging
Down Roses

   Pruning
Climbing Roses

   7 Steps
Toward Success with Roses

Design

   Cutting Flowers For Display
   Heeling In
   Planting A Bare Root Rose
  
Planting A Container Rose
   Pruning A Rose Before Planting

Links

   EveryRose.com
   Roses
– Hometime

   The
Rose Garden – Single Roses

   Yesterday’s
Roses

   Rose
Gardens

 


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