Water Garden Aquatic Fiberglass pool

eu43016-115

Since
the introduction of fiberglass pools tremendous interest
has been shown in medium-sized garden pools.

Siting
the pool

Before constructing any pool careful thought should
be given to the siting. To create a successful bog garden
or water garden, it must be situated right out in the
open, in full sun. Although not essential it is advantageous
to give protection from the north, if possible, as this
will extend the flowering period both in autumn and
spring. A belt of trees, a hedge or buildings on the
north are all suitable. Overhanging trees are a disadvantage,
both because of the amount of shade they cast and on
account of their leaves, which will undoubtedly fall,
in the water during the autumn. Weeping trees, although
aesthetically pleasing in their early stages can mar
a pool in a few years, as without sunlight you will
get leaves on aquatic plants, but no flowers.

Give
consideration also to the water supply, whether this
is natural or artificial. Generally speaking large quantities
of water are not required after the initial filling.
Even in a discolored pond you should not continuously
run in fresh water or make frequent changes, as this
tends only to keep the water murky. Provided the pool
can be reached with a garden hose a normal domestic
supply is quite adequate. Drainage should be considered
but is not very important, provided there is lower ground
nearby or a drain on a lower level, into which Water
can be siphoned or baled during emptying.

Paint
the pools in dark or natural colors, and try for a general
natural effect. The edges may either be disguised with
plants, paving or stones, which should slightly overhang
the water. Or you may cover the edges with Myriophyllum
proserpinaco ides, a very rampant grower. As it is sometimes
destroyed by frost, a pan of young cuttings should be
removed to frost-free quarters in autumn.

Deep
water aquatics

Great care should be taken in the selection and subsequent
planting of nymphaeas (water-lilies). Shallow-water,
marginal aquatics require plain loam, and bonemeal should
be added only when the soil is poor, as most of these
plants are difficult to keep within limits. Most water
plants flourish freely if they are planted directly
on the base of the pool, but many fiberglass pools do
not retain the soil on the shelves, and the plants may
have to be put in containers. The main advantage of
planting directly into a soil base is that most of the
plants remain undisturbed for four or five years (except
for thinning operations) whereas in containers they
have to be repotted every third year. On the other hand,
it is much simpler to lift and replant containers than
resoil the whole pool. Choose large plastic containers,
or make them from 2.5 x 2.5cm (1 x 1 in) timber nailed
together with 2.5cm (1 in) spaces between the slats,
or you can use old wicker baskets.

Tall
marginal aquatics, such as Scirpus albescens ,
should be reduced in height to 23-25cm (9-10in) to prevent
them from being blown over before the roots have obtained
hold. Underwater or oxygenating aquatics need only be
pushed into the soil in the deep parts of the pool or
planted in containers beside the water-lilies, etc.
Most marginal requires slight thinning each year, especially
some of the more vigorous varieties. Most spread readily
and small pieces can easily be removed and replanted.

The
nymphaeas are by far the most important deep water aquatics,
but there are a few other plants in this section worthy
of mention. These may be grown in formal pools on their
own or informally with the water-lilies.

Sometimes
they succeed where waterlilies fail because of overhanging
trees or insufficient room for the latter to develop.
The genera Aponogeton and Nuphar contain
suitable species.

Hardy
marginal aquatics

The majority like to have their roots covered with 5
to 7cm (2 or 3in) of water, although some will grow
in more and others are perfectly happy in permanently
wet soil. Suitable species will be found in the following
genera: Acorus, Butomus Caltha, Cotula, Cyperus,
Eriophorum: Iris, Juncus, Menyanthes, Mimulus, Orontium,
Pontederia, Sagittaria, Scirpus and Typha
.
.

Submerged and floating
aquatics

These are vital for the well being of the pool to correct
balance and obtain clear water. Oxygenating aquatics
replace lost oxygen to the water and provide cover and
a breeding ground for the fish. Many oxygenators are
very rampant and so have to be kept in check. This is
not difficult; the garden rake should be forcefully
pulled through the underwater vegetation when it is
becoming overcrowded to remove all surpluses. It is
advisable to introduce four or five different varieties
of oxygenating plants at one time. It will be found
that some will grow at an alarming rate and others either
stand still or die. This will have no adverse effect,
as those that are growing well will do the work of the
less vigorous varieties.



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