Pruning Climbing Roses


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Pruning Climbing Roses

need present no difficulty, although it is true
it seems to puzzle many rose growers of some years’
standing. But, as a rule, where they err is not
in pruning the plants insufficiently, but in pruning
them too much. While systematic and regular pruning
is good for the dwarf roses, climbing varieties,
as a rule, are all the better for light pruning.
The best blooms of a climbing rose are produced
by one-year-old growths and, theoretically, the
shoots that have bloomed should be cut out as
soon as the flowers are over, so that fresh growths
may be encouraged to take their places. This is
certainly correct advice,, but some sorts are
so accommodating that the removal of the older
growths may often be dispensed with. They are
found among the wichuraiana varieties. These bloom
so freely, even from the side shoots that form
on the two- and three-year-old stems, that it
is a pity to cut them out as long as there is
room for them. Of course, preference is always
given to the youngest, and it is unwise to crowd
the growths together, or in aiming at getting
a superabundance of blossom the grower may find
that unhappily he obtains none at all worth having.
Thus, while liberties may be taken with the Dorothy
Perkins class of rose that would lead to disappointment
with other kinds, it should not be forgotten that
no rose will bloom well if its growths have not
a fair share of sunshine and fresh air. Here are
the names of a few that may be neglected for two
or three years so far as pruning is concerned
and be none the worse for it, and in the garden
of the inexperienced grower they may conceivably
be all the better:-Dorothy Perkins and its first
cousin, if not its sister, Lady Gay, Auguste Barbier,
Alberic Barbier, Tausendschon, Minnehaha, Hiawatha,
White Dorothy Perkins, Jersey Beauty, Elisa Robinson,
Gardenia, Lady Godiva, Joseph Billard, and Edmond

roses belonging to the multiflora class, of which
Crimson Rambler is a type,- are not to be treated
so cavalierly in the matter of pruning. There
is a great difference in the quality of the blooms
produced by one-year-old growths and those of
greater age. The shoots of the previous year’s
growth yield fine flower bunches direct from the
main stem, but all other growths bloom only from
comparatively weak side shoots, and their flowers
are not to be compared with those from younger
stems. It is thus not wise to take liberties with
Crimson Rambler and its near relations, or they
will retaliate by rewarding the gardener in negative
fashion in the matter of blossom. Let me name
a few of these near relatives so that the reader
may be forewarned, and treat them with the respect
that they at any rate seem to think is their due.
Some of the most familiar are Aglaia, Blush Rambler,
Crimson Rambler, Electra, H61&e, Leuchtstern,
Mrs. Flight, Philadelphia Rambler, Psyche, Rubin,
and Waltham Rambler. ” Cut out the old, train
in the new ” should be the grower’s motto in dealing
with these.

must just say a word about the pruning of the
Noisette roses, for they need considering separately,
and among them are such favorites as William Allen
Richardson and Reve d’Or. They are not so adept
at producing fresh vigorous shoots from the base
of the plant as varieties of the two classes just
mentioned, and therefore the older shoots must
be treated with greater consideration than usual,
since when there are few to replace them we must
needs make the best of those we have. As a rule,
if, well planted and hard pruned the spring following
planting they grow vigorously enough for the first
two or three years ; afterwards an opportunity
is usually offered to the practiced pruner to
give proof of his skill. This he will do by bending
down some of the strong growths that have assumed
a perpendicular position, by shortening others
to within a few inches of the ground, and by seeing
that all shoots are spread out as much as possible.
Everyone must have noticed that all plants grown
against walls (and it is often as wall roses that
the Noise varieties are valuable) show most vigor
at the top.. If this state of things is allowed
to become too pronounced it must ultimately mean
that the base of the plant gets bare. Noise roses
other than those I have mentioned are found in
Celine Forestier, Marechal Niel, Fortune’s Yellow,
Lamarque (all needing the shelter of a warm wall
facing south), Alister Stella Oray, and C. Kuster.
So much, then, for pruning the roses that are
commonly grown. What I have not made plain I hope
the accompanying sketches will do. I am trusting
to them to make up for my shortcomings in description.
There is really not very much to say in respect
of the other classes of roses that are comparatively
rarely grown that would interest the average amateur.
They nearly all need similar treatment, which
is, that you cut out some of the older growths
occasionally in late summer when the plants have
done flowering, and at the spring pruning, which
is practiced in late March, you cut back about
half-way each remaining shoot.





Bush or Dwarf Roses

Down Roses

Climbing Roses

   7 Steps
Toward Success with Roses


   Cutting Flowers For Display
   Heeling In
Planting A Bare Root Rose
Planting A Container Rose
   Pruning A Rose Before Planting

– Hometime

Rose Garden – Single Roses




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