Gladiolus for a long blooming season
offer a wide range of colors, a long period of bloom
with excellent lasting qualities. Their comparative
case of culture makes them a welcome addition to most
Glads lend themselves to
planting in rows or beds, in borders, and among shrubbery
or flowers. Some of the smaller types are desirable
in rock gardens. Varieties should be selected with different
blooming dates and planting should be staggered to lengthen
the flowering season.
Additional Care information on Gladiolus
SOIL: Glads will grow in most all
garden soil but a sandy loam is most desirable. If the
soil is of a heavy clay nature, sand or peat should
be added. Prior to planting, spade the soil at least
12 inches deep, making it easier for the fast growing
roots to spread out.
PLANTING: Plant in a location fully
exposed to the sun. Two or three rows can be spaced
5 to 6 inches apart, but additional rows should be some
2 or 3 feet away. In the bottom of the planting trench,
scatter 1 pint (1 lb.) of fertilizer per 25 feet of
row and over with a layer of soil. This feeding will
give larger and better quality blooms and produce stronger
corms after blooming is over. Place corms 3 to 4 inches
deep in a trench row and about the same distance apart.
Do not plant glads until late spring after all danger
of frost is over.
GROWING CARE: To conserve moisture
and keep the soil in good condition, cultivate frequently
throughout the growing season. Thorough watering, not
mere sprinkling, is beneficial during dry weather. Glads
often need to be supported by stakes. Short growing
varieties can be supported by a heavy cord stretched
along the row.
FEEDING: just before bloom, glads
should have an additional feeding of Fertilizer. Feed
1 pound per 25 feet of row, working it into the soil
on either side of the row with a hoe or rake. Feed individual
plants at the rate of 1 rounded tablespoonful per plant.
CUTTING BLOOMS: Cut spikes as buds
start to open with a long slanting cut. Use a sharp
knife rather than shears to avoid bruising. Leave 4
strong leaves to aid plant in developing big strong
corms for next season’s growth. Put spikes in cold water
immediately after cutting.
DIGGING: Dig corms as soon as foliage
turns yellow or brown (about 6 weeks after blooming).
Cut top off close to corm and dry well in open air or
ventilated place for several days. Continue drying in
a sheltered dry place before storing for the winter
in flats or boxes placed in a cool dry cellar or basement.
In some southern states, it is not necessary to dig
corms in the fall.