How to grow Loganberry

Loganberry

The
loganberry is, perhaps, the supreme bramble type of
berry, as it is ideal for stewing, jam- and jelly-making,
bottling, canning, juice extraction and wine making.
The berries can also be eaten as dessert when fully
ripe, but may be too tart for some palates.

Opinions
are divided as to whether the loganberry is a red-fruiting
form of the common Californian blackberry, Rubus
ursinus vitifolius,
or a seedling from a cross between
the `Red Antwerp’ raspberry and the American blackberry
‘Aughinburgh’. The plant appeared in 1881 in the garden
of Judge J. H. Logan of Santa Cruz, California, from
whom it takes its name. It has been cultivated in England
since 1897.

The
loganberry produces vigorous, prickly canes carrying
3- to 5-lobed leaves. As flowering is late, the plants
may be grown in low-lying situations; spring frosts
rarely damage the blossom, though severe winters may
affect the canes. Loganberries are self-compatible and
yield heavy crops of blunt, firm, very juicy, deep red
berries of a rich flavor, from August to September.
The yield may be sustained for 15 years or more. The
berries do not plug, so are picked complete with core.
Picking is best done when the berries are quite dry.

Heavy,
rather than chalky and light and dry, soils are preferred-chalky
soils induce iron and manganese deficiencies. Well-drained
loams and brick earths are ideal. Loganberries love
rich soil and respond to generous manuring. Nitrogen
is the most important plant food requirement. Mulch
annually with farmyard manure in late autumn or feed
with 56g (2oz) of fish manure and 28g (1oz) of sulphate
of potash per sq. m sq. ft).

A sunny
and open but sheltered site is best with protection
from northeast winds. The rows should run north south.

Propagation
is usually by tip layering between June and mid-August.
The tips of young canes are pegged down 6-8cm (2-Sin)
deep (or weighted with a flat stone), into small pots
filled with rooting compost and sunk in the ground.
The young plants are severed from the parent canes when
well rooted in the following February. Alternatively,
leaf bud cuttings are rooted 6cm (3in) apart in a bed
of sandy soil in a closed and shaded garden frame in
July or August. Each cutting consists of a leaf and
bud with a 2.5cm (1in) length of cane bark devoid of
pith. Roots are produced in three to four weeks; the
young plants are hardened off a month later and transplanted
the following spring.

Rooted
tips or cuttings are planted 2-3m (6-10ft) apart in
February or March against fences, north or east walls,
and up arches. Post and wire supports with wires at
0.6, 1.2 and 2m (2, 4 and 6ft) from soil level are used
on open sites. Shorten the young plants to 23cm (8in)
after planting, to encourage the production of strong
new shoots on which fruit will be borne the following
year. To reduce disease infection from the older canes,
the young canes are trained fan-wise on the opposite
side from the old canes. The two ages of cane occupy
alternate sides annually. Ten to 12 fruiting canes are
retained per plant. Fruiting is on one-year-old canes,
which are cut down to ground level in October after
fruit harvest.

Pests
and diseases are the same as those, which attack raspberries.

Two
good varieties are the following: ‘LY 59’, which is
a virus-free clone available since the late 1950s. It
is free from the debilitating viruses, which reduce
the crop of infected loganberries. It is the heaviest
cropper-it may yield 8.5kg (17,1b) of fruit per bush.
‘American Thornless’, a prickle-free mutation was found
in 1933. It is a pleasure to prune. Slightly less vigorous
than the common loganberry, it is an ideal variety for
the smaller garden and may yield up to 7.5kg (15lb)
of fruit per bush.

Fruit Trees for your garden:

Apple tree
Apricot
Blackberry
Cherry Tree
Currants
Gooseberry
Grapes
Loganberry
Peach & Nectarine trees
Pear Trees
Plum tree

Raspberries
Strawberries

 


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